The word Inaka in Japanese means rural or country. And just like everywhere else in the world, country folk tend to be more conservative, more provincial but also warmer, not so formal. For many new JET's arriving from urban areas the combination of Japanese life and rural life provides a double shock. Living in inaka Ehime however presents the unique opportunity to see "real Japan" up close and become part of a community that is lacking in the anonymous metropolis.
Standing Out
The Japanese word for foreigner is gaikokujin or more commonly gaijin, meaning "outside country person" or "outside person" respectively with the latter being considered rude and sometimes racist. You will learn these words fast. You may hear them whispered as you walk down the street, or shouted when you arrive at school.
Because Japan is so homogeneous, any difference really stands out. And the Japanese while they are shy about everything else are not shy about staring at you. Also, you will find that people you have never meet before will know your name, where you work, what country you are from, and what day you do your washing. This may be surprising at first, but it soon becomes one of things that amuse you about living in Japan. Yes it can get irritating sometimes, but try to enjoy the celebrity. It comes from a genuine curiosity and, 99.99 percent of the time, neither malice nor rudeness is intended. You are in a place where people just want to know you.
Getting awayWhen it all gets a bit claustrophobic it's a good idea to get out of town for the weekend, see some new scenery and be somewhere where everybody doesn't know your name. The transport system in Japan makes this really easy. The ferry routes in particular make it cheep and easy to get out of Ehime to Kyushu, Hiroshima and Osaka for those times when you crave urban life.
Getting in touch with other JETs is essential to happy living in Japan. Everyone here understands the ups and downs of rural life, and getting to know your fellow JETs provides you with empathy and a place to nip off to for a weekend. The rural towns of Ehime hold a variety of festivals in the summer. These range from the traditional to the downright strange. The festivals in your area offer a good opportunity to invite some JET friends round to your town and have some fun. Check out the regional pages for more information about festivals and towns across Ehime.
Going to the StoreIn a small town you are bound to run into someone you know at the grocery store every time. You may find your inaka neighbors inordinately curious about what you are buying. They may ask you "What are you buying?" Or, just have a look for themselves in your basket. No matter what you are buying, they will be surprised; either to find that foreigners use soy sauce, or that for breakfast we eat cereal.
Living in the inaka, be prepared to go without some things. There may not be a video store in your town. Some places will have restaurants that close around 8:00 p.m. This may take some getting used to. You will find your local store is lacking in some of the things you consider basics, such as whole wheat bread. There are ways of getting past these inconveniences.
In rural Ehime, every move you make is town news. From who you had over to your house to what illnesses you have had. It's not that they are nosy, it's more like having a foreigner in their midst is exciting. If you are seen with someone of the opposite sex, foreign or Japanese, you will be asked if they are your boyfriend or girlfriend. And, despite your answer (this is my friend/colleague/father) they will most likely still insist it is your lover. Don't worry. No one really cares about your social habits; it's just something to make conversation about.
If you get sick, it may be big news in town. Folks will immediately wonder why you weren't at school. And your supervisor, the doctor and nurses will tell them exactly what you had. Don't be surprised if when you return to work, someone asks "How's your diarrhea?" This isn't just the treatment for foreigners. When it comes to conversations about health in Japan, there is no such thing as too much information! However, it is at times of ill health that the kindness and generosity of inaka people is displayed. You will have a whole hoard of tea ladies and school nurses ready to take your temperature, visit you and fluff your pillow.
Keeping it TogetherThere are many ways to cope with the lack of urban distractions and many ways to take advantage of living in the country. It helps to have something to fill your evening, rather than another night of Japanese TV and bean paste ice cream. The first few months you will have less to do, but as you find things of interest and get invited along to clubs and groups, you will be wondering when you will have the time to go to sleep.
All in all, living in the inaka presents a unique opportunity. You will be surprised everyday both by the kindness of people and by their obscure interest in the most banal aspects of your life. Living in Ehime is what you make of it and it's a great chance to get an inside view of Japan.