Chained Up⛓️– Conquering Western Japan’s Highest Peak

Justin Dobbs

2024 MIKAN BLOG WRITER & COPY EDITOR

Justin is a first year JET based on the edge of Ehime in Shikokuchuo. Coming from a writing/communications background in suburban Georgia, he is excited to write about the JET experience in a place with such amazing natural beauty. It hasn’t been very long since coming here, but the kindness of the people and seemingly endless places to discover in Shikoku make it the perfect canvas for storytelling. Justin enjoys hiking, cycling, coffee, and getting lost exploring the island.

Deep in the mountains of Saijo sits one of the countries’ most sacred climbing destinations. A holy grail of sorts for climbers from all over, Mt. Ishizuchi (石鎚) is the tallest mountain in western Japan towering at a staggering 1,982 meters. Meaning “stone hammer”, which comes from the sharp peaks at the top, Ishizuchi comes complete with shrines, and arguably the best view in Shikoku. You’d think with a name like that, it would be the sheer height that makes this mountain so memorable. However, as everyone who’s taken on the challenge of climbing it will likely tell you, it’s all about the chains.

While it is not uncommon for mountains to be fixed with ropes and chains to make the climb safer and easier, none make them such a core part of the experience as Mt. Ishizuchi. It features four sets of thick iron chains that have been hanging almost vertically on the mountainside for hundreds of years. The shortest of these is 33 meters long, while the last and longest is over twice that at 68 meters. All four are complete free climbs requiring good climbing ability and the right conditions to safely make it to the top. If you aren’t confident, or if the weather turns inclement, it is strongly advised you take the alternate routes which bypass the chains entirely. Yet, despite the difficulty and danger, conquering all four is one of the most rewarding experiences you can have in Ehime.

Luckily, the start of the climb isn’t nearly as daunting. Instead of steep ascents, you’ll be faced with an onsen, a gift shop, and a cable car that climbs to 1,300 meters. It’s a fairly serene way to ease into the all-day adventure ahead. In fact, the whole first half isn’t very challenging, instead offering easily traversable paths winding through verdant landscapes. It’s the perfect chance to stop, take pictures and enjoy being in one of Japan’s best mountain ranges. Along with Ishizuchi shrine acting as both a rest stop and an incredibly beautiful attraction, you’d be forgiven for thinking this hammer isn’t very rock hard after all.

However, it’s not long after you pass through the old torii gate and get a first glimpse of the summit standing proudly in the distance that the mountain begins to come alive. The path starts to narrow, the stairs become steeper, and before long you come face to face with a steep wall of rock with a long stretch of chains beckoning you to the top.

Known as the “trail chains”, these are the first of four increasingly difficult climbs that test if you’re ready for what lies ahead. Compared to the others these are fairly safe as they aren’t as steep and have plenty of grabs and footholds. So long as you go slow and take it one chain link at a time there shouldn’t be a problem. As a reward for this first success (even if you skip it), there is even a snack hut directly after allowing you to refuel and prepare.

Not too far from this is where the forest slowly starts to thin out. You’re met with more rocky outcroppings, views of the peak, and mountain vegetation like Sasa bamboo. It all combines to create a feeling of otherworldliness as your ascent into the clouds leaves civilization farther and farther below. Adding to this are the torii gates and religious imagery such as tengu and wooden sandals scattered throughout.

In fact, Ishizuchi is somewhat unique in that the main religion practiced on and around it is Shugendo. Essentially, it combines elements of Shintoism, Daoism, and Buddhism to create a form of mountain worship where the entire place is revered as a “god”. While to most people climbing is a fun outdoor activity, to practitioners of Shugendo it’s a holy experience. Attired in their signature white robes, they place heavy emphasis on physical exertion and training. In part, this is the reason these chains are so important. They aren’t just a thrill-seeking shortcut to the top, they are a pathway by which one becomes closer to “god”.

This “closeness” however, isn’t just figurative. As you come face to face with moss covered rocks and a web of iron links, the sheer openness of being halfway up a cliff face creates a unique blend of awe and appreciation. With each of the four sets you conquer the unique challenges this mountain poses becomes increasingly vivid. This is especially true on the final stretch, where the longest and hardest part of the climb stands in the way of you and the top like some clichéd video game final boss. Not only does it take the most skill and stamina to complete, but by that point (especially if you haven’t taken the alternate routes) it’s likely to be where you’ll feel most fatigued. The good news is, with the same careful progression as before, this boss can be beaten.

After a full day of climbing and exploring all that Mt. Ishizuchi has to offer, nothing feels sweeter than pulling yourself up that final chain link and seeing the summit up close in all its glory…after one last precarious stretch that is. In truth, climbing all that way does lead to the beautiful shot of the mountain found in all the photos. However, to reach the actual top you’ll still need to traverse a narrow ridgeline. It’s a fairly short distance, but the sharp knife’s edge drop off on the left side does pose a challenge to which caution is advised. Still, for those determined enough, finally touching the top and seeing nothing but the vast Shikoku landscape below is one of the most breathtaking experiences you can have in this part of Japan.

With the climb complete and nothing but stunning views in every direction, you’d think that’s all there is to reaching the highest point in western Japan. Just take a few Instagram worthy selfies and bask in the glory of such an achievement. However, Mt. Ishizuchi actually has more to offer than just that. If you call ahead and make a reservation at Ishizuchi Shrine Peak Lodge located on a plateau just before the peak, you can stay the night on the mountaintop. While not the most luxurious accommodation, they do have showers, hot meals, and drinks, allowing you to unwind after the hard climb. However, the real reward for staying is what happens every evening and morning.

The sunset and sunrise here are second to none on Shikoku. The way the sun’s rays illuminate the entire island in an orange balmy glow creates a scene that can only be described as heavenly. Shadows dance off the cliffsides while a sea of golden clouds blankets everything below. It’s the kind of place you’ll want to sit for hours just watching the landscape explode with color. That’s not to mention the sparkling array of stars that come out not long after to create an awe-inspiring second act. To top it all off, there is a sunset and sunrise service held at the shrine where the doors are opened, and you can join in with the priest for a chant-style prayer for protection and safety. It adds that extra bit of mysticism to remind everyone that the mountain they just conquered is an extremely holy and ancient place.

Overall, Mt. Ishizuchi isn’t the most challenging climb in Japan, but it is one of the most memorable. With such unique features and stunning views in every direction, there’s a reason people have been both literally and figuratively chained to this mountain for generations. For those who live in and love Shikoku, it stands as one of the best ways to truly appreciate this island’s abundant natural beauty. Not only that, but the large iron links that give this mountain so much character offer unique challenges that attract climbers from all over to test their mettle. In that sense, the name “Ishizuchi” or “Stone Hammer” is a perfect fit. The way up may be rock hard in some places, but all its parts and pieces have been nailed together to create the perfect climbing experience.