Justin Dobbs
2024 MIKAN BLOG WRITER
Justin is a second year JET based on the edge of Ehime in Shikokuchuo. Coming from a writing/communications background in suburban Georgia, he is excited to write about the JET experience in a place with such amazing natural beauty. “It hasn’t been very long since coming here, but the kindness of the people and seemingly endless places to discover in Shikoku make it the perfect canvas for storytelling.” Justin enjoys hiking, cycling, coffee, and getting lost exploring the island.
To the average first-time tourist to Japan, the entire island of Shikoku is already fairly remote. Normally reserved for those experienced travelers looking for a more “authentic” look at the country, it’s far removed from the hustle and bustle of Shibuya Crossing or the crowded streets leading to the grand halls of Kiyomizu-dera. More than that though, many would be surprised to know that there is one Shikoku region that’s even more remote than the rest.
While not technically the “center of Shikoku”, the Iya Valley in Tokushima Prefecture might as well be. It’s completely surrounded by tall mountains, steep ridges, and the raging Iya River cutting through the landscape like a surgeon. Viewed from Google Maps, it seems like a vast expanse of green broken up by a few small blink-and-you’ll-miss-it towns. Perhaps only rivaled by the Shikoku Karst in Kochi Prefecture, this imposing landscape is a natural fortress like few others. However, just like in Jules Verne’s famous novel “Journey to the Center of the Earth”, those who make the journey there will find an incredible hidden world just waiting to be discovered.
Meaning “ancestor valley” (祖谷) the Iya Valley feels…old, but not in the sense of being run-down. Rather, with ancient bridges, thatched roof buildings, and breathtaking mountain views around every corner, it wholeheartedly embraces its deep history. This place was famously used as a refuge for the Taira Clan after they lost the Gempei War in 1185, and interestingly the descendants of this clan still inhabit the valley to this day. Many of the structures both new and old have been built precariously on the cliffside adding to the rugged feeling of permanence that has lasted for centuries.
While much of that history has unfortunately been lost to time, what has remained is just as beautiful today as it was nearly 1000 years ago. The most famous of these wonders is undeniably the three vine bridges (かずら橋) which stretch across the Iya River. Created with wild mountain vines and uncomfortably spaced wooden planks, they regularly attract visitors with their fairytale-like appearance and slight daredevil status. Despite being reinforced with steel wires underneath the tangled web of vines, walking across is still a powerful feeling as you go further over the rocky river below. Along with the bridge’s constant creaking and subtle swaying motion, the idea of being suspended so high up is daunting. But for those willing to take on the challenge, this is easily one of the best ways to get a nearly unobstructed view of the pristine untouched scenery.
Fall is when these bridges really shine. The explosion of red, yellow, and orange-tinted foliage is akin to jumping into a Bob Ross painting where any sense of civilization is lost in a sea of color. Paired with the cozy seasonal weather, scenic river walk, and a number of local shops, like the Bear of the Mountain (森のくまさん) cafe, it’s not hard to see why so many people make the trip every year. Just note that while the first bridge is relatively easy to access by car, the latter two (known as the Oku-Iya Double Vine Bridges) are roughly another hour’s journey into the mountains and are preceded by the valley’s most peculiar (and perhaps most haunting) location.
Picture this. While driving through roads almost as tangled as the vine bridges, a busy road construction worker comes into view. He’s slightly chubby and dressed in bright yellow gear, but something seems off. He and the smiling police officer behind him appear frozen, not having moved an inch save for their soft, cloth-like hair flowing in the wind. Getting closer, it becomes clear that these suspicious civil servants aren’t human at all…but scarecrows. That unnerving introduction is exactly how it feels to enter the famous Nagoro Scarecrow Village (名頃かかしの里).
While it is undeniably a bit scary (especially at night) the hundreds of scarecrow inhabitants actually represent the somewhat sad reality of a town stuck in time. There are kids playing, pedestrians waiting at the bus stop, farmers tilling soil, and even a wedding happening at the school. All this action and yet, it’s deafeningly quiet. It’s all the work of one of the few remaining human inhabitants named Tsukimi Ayano, who, after seeing the drastic depopulation of her idyllic mountain town, decided to keep it “alive” with her creative scarecrows. Many are modeled after real inhabitants who at one time called Nagoro Village home but have long since gone. To outsiders these handmade villagers might seem like a crazy idea, but in truth, they are a genuine attempt at preventing yet one more mountain town from falling into obscurity.
Creepy or not though, Nagoro Scarecrow Village is well worth a visit. If not for its unique identity and genuinely beautiful landscape, then for its proximity to Mt. Tsurugi (剣山) which more than makes up for the trip. As the island’s second tallest mountain at 1,955 meters, it stands as the pinnacle of Iya Valley exploration. With its signature bald treeless top being visible from miles away and a striking bird’s-eye view of the valley, climbing this mountain truly feels like finding the center of Shikoku. Complete with a relaxing chairlift followed by a roughly 45-minute hike to the top, it makes for a surprisingly accessible peak to conquer. Not only that, but there are long stretches of wooden boardwalk that make traversing its highest reaches extremely picturesque. In many ways, Mt. Tsurugi feels lifted straight from the mind of Hayao Miyazaki rather than a rough natural wonder hidden away in one of Japan’s most remote areas.
Other than just stunning hikes and daring vine bridge crossings though, the Iya Valley has something more to offer – relaxation. It may not be obvious by looking at the rugged terrain, but there are plenty of spots to take in the beautiful scenery while taking it easy. For instance, the Hotel Iyaonsen proudly takes the crown for the best accommodation. While a bit on the pricey side, it’s the picturesque cliffside views and secret riverside open-air bath that make it really shine. For non-guests the bath costs 1,900 yen to access, but it’s well worth it. Featuring a relaxing cable car ride down the cliff, mineral rich water, and an unobstructed bath-side view of the river, it would be hard to find any place for a soak quite like it in Shikoku. Whereas Dogo Onsen in Matsuyama is renowned for its famous architecture and deep history, Iyaonsen has arguably the best built-in natural aesthetic.
For even more relaxing stops, there’s the Oboke Gorge for boat tours over the pristine, emerald-green water, the Hinoji Valley for the perfect photo spot, and the delicious Senkichi soba noodle shop for the best noodles the valley has to offer – just watch out for the ninjas! These are just the start of a seemingly endless list of things to do in the valley. Whether it’s adventure, relaxation, or just an escape from everyday life, jumping in the car or bus to visit is well worth the journey.
Like with any hidden world though, that’s easier said than done. All it takes is one drive through its never-ending winding roads that connect from one cliff to the next to see just how untouched it really is. Just as Professor Otto Lidenbrock had great trouble getting to the center of the earth, navigating the Iya Valley can be difficult without the right know-how. In terms of trains, the Dosan Line that runs from Tadotsu Station in Kagawa Prefecture all the way to Kochi Prefecture is the only one that goes through the valley. Even then, it only makes one stop in Iya at Oboke Station from which there is a transfer to the Iya Line bus route. This, as well as the Nagoro Line it connects to are the main forms of public transit in the valley and make stops at nearly all the big-name locations. However, past Nagoro Scarecrow Village (AKA the double vine bridges and Mt. Tsurugi) the public transit is limited to just the weekends during peak seasons. Because of this, going via car is extremely recommended if possible.
There’s a reason the Iya Valley is constantly listed amongst the most difficult places to visit in Japan. From the tall mountains and deep ravines acting as beautiful barriers to the outside world, to the very limited public transit options, this place is as magical as it is elusive. But those who are able to make the journey to this “hidden gem” will find that it isn’t simply one place, but an entire world where stories new and old are put on the forefront with some of the most scenic locations this country has to offer. It may not be the center of the world or even Shikoku for that matter, but it doesn’t need to be. It’s at the heart of what makes this island so great, and that’s worth a visit.
Travel Tips
Getting There
🚂 If you’re feeling a little fancy and want to get to Oboke Station in style, try taking a ride on the Shikou Mannaka Sennen Monogatari sightseeing train. You can find the seat availability here.
🚌 Once you’re in the area, getting around Iya Valley by bus can be a little complicated, but it’s doable!
Check out these timetables: Japanese & English
🌐 For more details on access to & around Miyoshi/Iya Valley, check out this site.
Mt. Tsurugi
🥾Mt. Tsurugi is not too difficult a climb. If you start from the main trailhead, it’ll take 1.5～2 hours to hike to the summit! If you take the chair lift, it’ll take you halfway up, leaving you with only about a 45-minute hike.
Hours (& Dates) of Operationー
🗓️ mid-April to late November
🕘9am～4:30pm
🗓️Golden Week, August 1st-31st, and on weekends & holidays in October
🕗8am～4:30pm
💴Price (Adult)ー one way ￥1050, round trip￥1900
🌐Plan your hike & check out this site for more details.
Useful Resources
For more information on the locations listed in Justin’s article along with some other famous spots in the Miyoshi/Iya area, here are a couple sites you can check out:
🌐IyaTime: Iya Valley & Oboke Gorge Travel Guide
🌐Oboke Iya Navi <Miyoshi City Official Tourism Site
Gizelle’s foodie recommendation: Soba’s famous in the area and Tsuzuki Syoten (つづき商店) is a great place to try some all while getting some hands-on experience. Make your own “Iya Soba” and have a cozy lunch at おばあちゃん’s. Interested? Here are some links:
🌐The official site
🌐To make a reservation
🌐Google Maps Location
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