Justin Dobbs
2024 MIKAN BLOG WRITER & COPY EDITOR
Justin is a first year JET based on the edge of Ehime in Shikokuchuo. Coming from a writing/communications background in suburban Georgia, he is excited to write about the JET experience in a place with such amazing natural beauty. It hasn’t been very long since coming here, but the kindness of the people and seemingly endless places to discover in Shikoku make it the perfect canvas for storytelling. Justin enjoys hiking, cycling, coffee, and getting lost exploring the island.
Upon first arriving in Shikoku, it is easy to see how heavily distanced it is from anything Western compared to other places in Japan. Aside from McDonalds or Starbucks, there aren’t many restaurants/brands westerners would be familiar with. Rather, this island does a good job of retaining a more authentic, countryside lifestyle that’s full of uniquely Japanese qualities around every corner. From untouched waterfalls, classic Sanuki udon, and the 88 sacred temples that make up the famous Shikoku Pilgrimage, this region is the perfect escape to the more traditional side of the country.
Imagine my surprise at seeing “Olive Garden” appear on Google Maps when researching an island just off the coast of Takamatsu called Shodoshima (小豆島). For those who may not know, Olive Garden is a much beloved, but at times hilariously overrated chain of Italian restaurants from America. While the idea of eating a giant plate of mass-produced lasagna by the beach certainly has an appeal, it is admittedly a bit out of place. However, by looking past the name and diving deeper into this island’s history, it becomes obvious that this isn’t everyone’s favorite mid-range Italian place, but the real deal – an actual olive garden.
In fact, Shodoshima itself is synonymous with olives. Ever since it became the first place in Japan to successfully cultivate them in 1908, it has been known as the “Olive Island” and has taken on a unique identity that blends Japanese and Mediterranean culture. From dark green fruit trees that pepper the hills, olive related merchandise for sale in every store, and even a whole cast of mascots like Prince Olive Shima-chan and the Olive King who both protect and promote the island, this fruit’s oily influence is inescapable. So much so that despite being only an hour ferry ride from Takamatsu Port, it feels closer to the Aegean Sea than it does the Seto Inland Sea, making it an easy day trip from Ehime.
After arriving at the port and being welcomed onto the island, it becomes apparent what makes it so distinct. Rows upon rows of trees weighed down by full olive branches line the landscape like some Grecian postcard amidst a bright, sunny climate that’s perfect for cultivating that signature bitter flavor. Getting lost in the gardens while sipping some delicious olive oil cider really gives the impression that Japan has somehow been gifted with a piece of Greece all for itself. In fact, this isn’t too far from the truth as Shodoshima is actually the sister island to Milos and features a bright white windmill that serves as both the centerpiece to the garden and a symbol of their friendship. This, combined with the distinctly Mediterranean stonework lining the walkways makes any sense of this being just an ordinary Japanese island disappear. However, the perhaps most direct link between these two familial places is located in the Olive Memorial Hall.
Even before walking in giant Parthenon-esque pillars catch the eye as striking precursors to the grandeur that awaits. Much like the real Parthenon once did, this hall houses a towering stone statue of the goddess Athena that dominates the area. It’s surrounded by ornate stained-glass images from Greek mythology along with other high-profile re-creation statues like the Venus de Milo. All this is situated under a dome that encompasses the whole room with star-like lights that add a heavenly touch.
Not only that, but the savory aroma of Italian and Spanish inspired dishes wafting down from the upstairs Café Olivaz rounds out the experience with an incredibly multicultural flavor profile. The hall also features a local history museum, a gift shop, and an ice cream shop with a deliciously unique olive flavor. Unlike anywhere else in or around Shikoku, the Olive Memorial Hall is perhaps the most authentic escape to another culture…that is if no attention is given to all the free-to-rent Kiki’s Delivery Service brooms hanging from the wall.
Surprisingly, despite how fundamental the Mediterranean is to Shodoshima’s identity, it still can’t escape the strong deep-rooted spell of Japanese influence. Like a witch delivering packages, this island receives just as many visitors coming for the anime magic as it does for the olives. Just by looking at it, the island has an uncanny resemblance to Koriko (the fictional city in Kiki’s Delivery Service). With European-style architecture and an Italian-esque seaside landscape that captures the same mysticism as the famous film, it wouldn’t be hard to imagine Kiki herself flying into town. In fact, she actually did.
In 2014 a live action version of Kiki’s Delivery Service was released which was filmed almost entirely on Shodoshima. While not completely faithful to the original story, it still finds Kiki trying to find her way as a witch all while exploring this island’s amazing natural beauty. Despite its moderate reception, fans have been flocking to the island to visit famous filming locations such as the windmill and gardens. Many of the photos online feature visitors jumping broom in hand, as if they were casually flying by like some magical tour group. This, along with other memorabilia such as postcards and a photo collection, add that extra bit of childlike wonder to an already enchanting place. However, that’s only part of the reason fans of anime flock to the island.
As it turns out there is another wildly popular series that has been enticing people to visit Shodoshima. Teasing Master Takagi-san (also known as Gekijōban Karakai Jōzu no Takagi-san in Japanese), also makes its home on the Olive Island. While perhaps not quite as well known as Ghibli’s giant, this romantic comedy/slice-of-life manga and anime is no less magical. Series creator Sōichirō Yamamoto actually hails from the town of Tonosho in western Shodoshima and features not only the famous olive garden, but also the more intimate details of the island in his stories. Locations like the golden sands of Angel Road that narrowly stretch out to Oyo Island (大余島), and the rolling green hills of the Nakayama Terraced Rice Fields (中山千枚田) all get their time to shine in one of Japan’s most wholesome narratives.
From 2013 all the way until the present, with the recent release of the live action film, fans have been eagerly riding the ferry over to see these beautifully illustrated/animated places jump off the page into real life. While Kiki highlights the more magical, multicultural elements of the island, Teasing Master Takagi-san shows how the more traditional side shines just as bright. For some, it may seem a bit cheesy to visit an island just because it was featured in a popular piece of media. However, when the place is packed with so many stunning locations and rich olive goodness, it’s hard to blame them.
Overall, Shodoshima and its signature olive garden is somewhat of an enigma amongst the hundreds of inland sea islands. Unlike so many other places, its creation of a dual identity doesn’t come off as gimmicky or disingenuous. Rather, the blend of Mediterranean and Japanese culture creates its own unique flavor that’s as refreshing as a tall glass of olive cider. There may not be unlimited breadsticks, but picturesque Grecian-style gardens, beautiful island scenery, and surprising anime history more than make up for it. They say oil and water don’t mix, but when it comes to olives and the Seto Inland Sea, there isn’t a better combination.
Getting to Shodoshima
Find your way to Takamatsu (Kagawa Prefecture) by bus, train or car and head to Takamatsu port! From the port, take the ferry or high speed boat! Once you’re on the island, use the bus or rent a car/bike to get around!
Notes: all prices listed below are for adults, one way. If you’re taking the bus, it is about 20 minutes to Olive Park (250 yen) from Ikeda and about 40 minutes from Tonosho (300 yen). Check out the Olive Bus timetables here.
⛴️Ferry: Takamatsu ➡️ Ikeda / Tonosho 💴 700 yen ⏱️1 hour
🚤High-Speed Boat: Takamatsu ➡️ Tonosho 💴 1400 yen ⏱️35 minutes
For more details on access, events, and ferry timetables, check out the official Shodoshima website here.
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