
Justin Dobbs
2024 MIKAN BLOG WRITER & COPY EDITOR
Justin is a first year JET based on the edge of Ehime in Shikokuchuo. Coming from a writing/communications background in suburban Georgia, he is excited to write about the JET experience in a place with such amazing natural beauty. It hasn’t been very long since coming here, but the kindness of the people and seemingly endless places to discover in Shikoku make it the perfect canvas for storytelling. Justin enjoys hiking, cycling, coffee, and getting lost exploring the island.
If there’s one thing to know about Japan it’s that there are festivalsー lots and lots of festivals. From the elegant Sapporo Snow Festival in Hokkaido to the unbeatably large and outrageous Gion Festival in Kyoto, so much of this country’s identity comes from these yearly crowd pleasers. With an astounding 1,200 major festivals to choose from, it would be impossible for even the most devoted, fun-seeking festival-goer to visit them all. And for the average Ehime resident, it’s even more challenging to get off the island, on the high-speed train, and to the main festivals across the country. Fortunately, there are a few must-see events right here in Shikoku.
Known collectively as “The Big Three”, these festivals claim to be the best Shikoku has to offer. It’s a bold statement considering the vast array of festivals that happen throughout the yearー narrowing it down to three feels a tad restrictive. However, for many, the bombastic impression left by the Yosakoi, Awa-Odori, and Niihama Taikodai festivals more than makes them worthy of the title. Stretched across the island in Kochi, Tokushima, and Ehime prefectures, they’re a perfect showcase of the very things that make Shikoku so special.
August 9th-12th
First up every year from August 9th to the 12th is the Yosakoi Festival in Kochi Prefecture! Matching the temperature of the season this extravagant dance event brings the heat with over 200 teams composed of more than 20,000 dancers taking over the city center with flashy, choreographed performances. Unlike other dance festivals which follow a more rigid format, the Yosakoi dancers are given almost complete autonomy in their moves, costumes, and music. This means each group can be wildly different from the last. Some favor a subtle, traditional style with slow graceful movements, while others take a much more liberal approach, often looking more like an 80s hair band with rad guitars and crazy costumes. It all comes together to create a strange, yet completely endearing collection of performers giving it their all to the thousands of cheering spectators.
There are still a few rules they must follow, however. For instance, they must keep progressing forward, parade-style, while incorporating elements from the traditional folk song “Yosakoi-bushi” into their music. Even more importantly, every dancer is required to hold tiny percussion instruments called “Naruko clappers”. Originally, these weren’t instruments at all, but tools that farmers used to scare away crows by making a loud clapping noise. Since the first Yosakoi way back in 1954, they have instead become symbols of the festival as each group’s movements are followed by a striking clap that reverberates down the streets like a thunderstorm. It’s an altogether powerful feeling as the energy and sound can be felt for miles away. The local birds may hate it, but for everyone else, these four days are the highlight of the year… that is, aside from the Awa-Odori that takes place not even a day later.




August 12th-15th
Beginning on the 12th and reaching its climax by the 15th, the Awa Odori transforms Tokushima City from a lesser-known metropolis into Japan’s biggest dance festival. No other dance festival matches the sheer scale of the roughly 1.3 million festival-goers who flock to the city every year to both watch and join in with the “Ren groups” that flood the streets in every direction. Unlike the Yosakoi, its main appeal for many visitors is the chance to dance the night away against the backdrop of the traditional Yoshikono song with taiko drums, shamisens, flutes, and bells. In fact, the core idea of the festival since its founding some 400 years ago is that regardless of rank or status, everyone should dance!
The Awa Odori wholeheartedly embraces the idea of getting a bit tipsy, letting loose, and (exactly as its nickname says) putting on a “Fool’s Dance”. This dance varies a bit, but generally involves extending the right hand and foot at the same time followed by the left hand and left foot. It’s a simple movement that anyone can pick up in a snap with the music and constant “Yattosa!” chants keeping the pace. During the day, the festival is surprisingly calm with dancers adorned from head to toe in special clam-shaped hats called “toriogasa”, happi, and yukata (casual kimonos). There are even sections with reserved seating where spectators can get the best view possible of the masterfully precise movements. However, when night falls, the thin veil of formality comes off to reveal a chaotic, dream-like event that’s unapologetically foolish in the best way possible.
Just like any dream though, one must wake up eventually. Thankfully, after nine days of constant festival celebrations across half the island, there is a two-month break before the drums start pounding again.




October 15th-18th
This time it’s Ehime that gets the attention where thousands of people flock to the city of Niihama. Just like Tokushima, this usually quiet city comes alive from October 15th to the 18th with Japan’s best and most chaotic taiko event. Instead of just drums though, this event takes it a step further by using what are called “taikodai”. These are essentially giant ornately decorated floats with a central enclosed space for the taiko drum. They’re suspended on four large wooden beams by which they can be both carried and/or wheeled into place. The truly amazing part is that they weigh approximately 2.5 tons, which is more than the average car and require teams of roughly 150 people to carry them. So, imagine having more than twenty taikodai all paraded into one place for a huge, televised competition; that’s what makes this festival so special!
Like movie stars walking down the red carpet, these groups of ordinary citizens, all wearing color-coordinated “happi” (festival coats) become superstars as they roll into place with a crowd of thousands, cheering and taking photos. The thrill of being in Yamane Park or other locations around the city where taikodai events are being held is infectious, especially when the performance actually begins! At first, the huge line of flashy taikodai teams perform simultaneously, rocking and hoisting the 2.5-ton floats up into the air to attract the most attention. However, that’s just the preview as each get their turn in front of the judges and the crowd to see who’s truly the best. For 20 uninterrupted minutes the wheels are taken off and fueled by pure determination (or possibly a few drinks). They show their mettle with a rapid succession of swings, tosses, and more vein-popping lifts than a bodybuilder at the gym. It’s a truly amazing display that deserves to be seen firsthand and makes it the perfect all-or-nothing event to cap off the festival season.








At the end of the day, whether or not these three are truly the best festivals in Shikoku is for each person to judge. What cannot be denied, though, is the sheer amount of joy and passion poured into each one. From wild costumes, masterful dances, and enough kinetic energy to power a city, they show just how alive this island’s culture is. For residents, they’re a reflection of local character that sets them apart from others. For visitors, they serve as glimpses of life in this little corner of Japan, and even gateways to the other festivities across the island throughout the year. And the best part is, with decades of experience to back them up, the so-called “Big Three” only promise to get even bigger in the years to come.



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