Starting Fresh: Hatsumode in Shikoku ⛩️

Justin Dobbs

2024 MIKAN BLOG WRITER & COPY EDITOR

Justin is a first year JET based on the edge of Ehime in Shikokuchuo. Coming from a writing/communications background in suburban Georgia, he is excited to write about the JET experience in a place with such amazing natural beauty. It hasn’t been very long since coming here, but the kindness of the people and seemingly endless places to discover in Shikoku make it the perfect canvas for storytelling. Justin enjoys hiking, cycling, coffee, and getting lost exploring the island.

Times Square, funny hats, Ryan Seacrest, and a giant disco ball counting down to midnight – that’s typically the type of image Americans have of New Year’s. It’s a wild, energy-filled occasion that often involves fireworks, drinks, and fun gatherings with friends to ring in the new year with a bang. Shared by countries around the world, having a huge outward display of excitement for the future is seen as an essential part of the culture. However, for Japan the most important holiday of the year has a very different tune.

Instead of large, televised events, families most often gather around shrines and temples on the first day of the new year in a tradition called Hatsumode (初詣で) or “first prayer”. Bells are rung at the stroke of midnight and attendees toss the lucky 5-yen coins into coffers, pray, and buy omikuji (personal fortunes written on slips of paper) and/or omamori (charms for good luck). While it may not be as “exciting” as other celebrations, amidst the soothing orange glow of paper lanterns the quiet, introspective atmosphere shouts just as loud as any million-dollar firework display. It’s not just at the nationally famous locations like Meiji Shrine in Tokyo or Fushimi Inari Taisha in Kyoto either. Just about every city or town all over Japan has popular places to experience this amazingly rich tradition. So, what about in Shikoku?

Unsurprisingly, Shikoku has a wealth of locations where people gather for Hatsumode. For those who enjoy staying local, talking to familiar faces will always be rewarding, but getting to know the wider region at the island’s bigger shrines and temples can be even more rewarding. For instance, Tsubaki Shrine in Ehime (located about 20 minutes from Matsuyama Station) is well-known for its large gatherings during the New Year holidays. With wide open spaces and grandiose architecture, this urban shrine is an easy choice for anyone in the prefecture. Not only is it big enough to fit its more central location, but other events like the Tsubaki Matsuri 椿まつり (Camellia Festival) are also held here and have only grown in their importance in Ehime. Even people from as far out as Shikokuchuo seem to have a fondness for this shrine, often referring to it with the same level of warmth as a pleasant childhood memory.

However, for anyone who wants to visit somewhere more remote but no less special, Oyamazumi Shrine on the western side of Omishima Island is the perfect choice. Its presence may be a bit more subdued, but the nearly 3000-year-old Camphor trees that surround the site add plenty of character and act almost like timeless guardians, giving visitors the sense of being transported to the past. Strolling down the quaint stone pathway during New Year’s while admiring the ingrained natural beauty is a special feeling one has to experience firsthand. Along with the charming local festivities, there are plenty of delicious restaurants and shops nearby to give this place a cozy, familiar atmosphere. In fact, those who’ve seen the 2013 film “The Wolverine” might recognize it as a handful of scenes were shot at the nearby Miyaura Port area. While there’s a pretty small chance Hugh Jackman will make an appearance, Tsubaki and Oyamazumi shrines by themselves are star locations for Hatsumode in Ehime.

These stars don’t end with Ehime though. Across the island Ryozen-ji Temple (霊山寺) and Ooasahiko Shrine (大麻比古神社) make a perfect pair for anyone spending the holidays in Tokushima Prefecture. Both are about a 15-minute walk from each other and attract thousands of locals every year – and for good reason! Ryozen-ji is actually the first temple on the famous Ohenro Pilgrimage (a collection of 88 specially designated temples in Shikoku). Many people have made it a tradition to start January 1st at the place where the nearly 2-month-long trek begins. Visitors are treated to a peaceful koi pond, an ornate pagoda, and hundreds of flickering orange lanterns lighting up the main hall like a night sky. It’s an unbeatably serene place for a New Year’s visit that’s complemented by the sheer scale of Ooasahiko Shrine.

Arguably the biggest and most important shrine in Tokushima, Ooasahiko is a regional powerhouse. In the past it was considered one of Japan’s most important shrines. However, in recent times that fame more or less stays within Tokushima where locals hold it and its beauty with great care. Year after year they stroll down the 800-meter entrance admiring the intricate stone lanterns and ancient Camphor trees that cover the area as though they’re a hidden treasure. In fact, legend has it that those who visit will have good luck and be protected from traffic accidents. More than that though, it’s the strong sense of community that goes into maintaining the magic of these places that truly makes Ooasahiko and its partner Ryozen-ji the gems they are.

Speaking of treasure though, when it comes to truly must-visit places for Hatsumode in Shikoku there is one place that stands above the rest – literally! Set loftily on Mount Zozu facing Kotohira (琴平町) in Kagawa prefecture is Kotohira Shrine (金刀比羅宮). More commonly known as Kompirasan, this shrine is dedicated to sailors and seafaring, featuring a variety of ocean-related memorabilia on site. What makes this place so special is that it’s not just a single shrine but an entire complex of ancient shrines and trendy shops all set on an imposing 1368 stone steps. Climbing up to the main hall is like a journey to the gods, where the Kyotoesque udon lined streets give way to a menagerie of old torii gates and elaborate stonework. Not only do they offer a stunning view of the city below, but every step leads visitors to beautifully ornate structures along the way. While Kompirasan may not be the most accessible place for a New Year’s visit, those who take the journey up its steep incline will be rewarded by arguably Shikoku’s best shrine.

Awe-inspiring at any time of the year, these shrines and temples are more than just photogenic places to post on social media; they are hot spots for communities to come together. Seeing crowds of ecstatic locals celebrating and wishing each other well to the sound of bells and prayers is an incredibly wholesome experience that anyone visiting or living in Japan wouldn’t want to miss. And, with so many locations right here in Shikoku it’s hard not to join in. Whether it’s at any of these well-known shrines with hundreds gathered for the festivities, or at a small local one with close friends, going for New Year’s will certainly be worthwhile. While it may not have the flash and glamor of a ball drop in Times Square, the unique charms of a “Hatsumode” will surely leave an impression that lasts well after the music of other festivities has gone out.

How-To Hatsumode: Helpful Tips

　How to Read Your Omikuji

Levels of Fortune

大吉・Daikichi・Great Blessing

中吉・Chūkichi・Middle Blessing

小吉・Shōkichi・Small Blessing

吉・Kichi・Blessing

末吉・Suekichi・Future Blessing

凶・Kyō・Curse

凶・Shōkyō・Small Curse

末凶・Suekyō・Future Curse

大凶・Daikyou・Great Curse

Aspects of Life (Fortune Categories)

方角 (hōgaku) – Auspicious/Inauspicious Directions

願事 (negaigoto) – One’s Wish or Desire

待人 (machibito) – A Person Being Waited For

失せ物 (usemono) – Lost Article(s)

旅立ち (tabidachi) – Travel

商い (akinai) – Business Dealings

学問 (gakumon) – Studies or Learning

相場 (sōba) – Market Speculation

争事 (arasoigoto) – Disputes

恋愛 (ren’ai) – Romantic Relationships

転居 (tenkyo) – Moving or Changing Residence

出産 (shussan) – Childbirth, Delivery

病気 (byōki) – Illness

縁談 (endan) – Marriage Proposal or Engagement

Note: After reading your fortune, you can either tie it up at the temple/shrine (good or bad!), or just simply take it home with you (if it’s reaaaally good, you can even put it in your wallet & keep it there).

Hey everyone! Thanks for checking out this month’s travel article. Hatsumode is one of the most important times of the year for Japan. We hope this article will help make your next Hatsumode experience even better. If there is a story, experience, or idea you’d like to share please reach out to us at themikanblog@gmail.com. We’d love to hear from you!

Best, Justin