Justin Dobbs
2024 MIKAN BLOG WRITER & COPY EDITOR
Justin is a first year JET based on the edge of Ehime in Shikokuchuo. Coming from a writing/communications background in suburban Georgia, he is excited to write about the JET experience in a place with such amazing natural beauty. It hasn’t been very long since coming here, but the kindness of the people and seemingly endless places to discover in Shikoku make it the perfect canvas for storytelling. Justin enjoys hiking, cycling, coffee, and getting lost exploring the island.
🎵 Almost heaven, Kochi Prefecture
Inamura Mountain, Shimanto River
Life in Tosa, older than the shrines
Younger than the mountains, growin’ like the pines
Kochi roads, take me home
To the place I belong 🎵
John Denver may have never paid a visit to Kochi Prefecture, but if he had, his famous country anthem may have ended up a little something like this. With sharp mountains, crystal clear rivers, and enough winding country roads to fill a record book, this region mirrors much of that down-to-earth country spirit Denver captured so well in his music. Mixed with a generous helping of shrines, temples, and natural wonders scattered throughout, perhaps no place in Shikoku better resembles an idealized Japanese version of West Virginia than this oft-overlooked part of Japan.
If and when people talk about Kochi, it’s usually in reference to four things: the beautiful coastline that’s perfect for surfing, the national hero samurai Sakamoto Ryoma, the carefully choreographed Yosakoi festival, and the Nankai Trough that’s sitting eerily in the depths just offshore. All of these are worthy of their own articles and rightly attract a lot of attention to the prefecture. However, what often gets overshadowed are the vast mountains that cover approximately 89% of the land area — the largest out of any prefecture in Japan. In fact, there are over 180 named mountains in Kochi, many of which have dedicated hiking trails and attractions just waiting to be explored.
Perhaps the most well-known of these hidden wonders is the Shikoku Karst. Sitting on the border between Ehime and Kochi prefectures, this mountainous feature is noticeably different from just about anything else on the island. At 1,400 meters above sea level the striking change from a sea of trees, rivers, and ravines to an open grassland sitting amongst the clouds is like a scene from a Ghibli film. Hills littered with limestone boulders roll into the distance while panoramic views of the seemingly endless forests below stretch out to the horizon. There is a certain quietness that permeates the whole area that’s only broken by the sound of…mooing.
To add to the extraordinary scenery of the Karst is the fact that the main residents aren’t humans, but cows. In fact, all along the hillsides they graze freely and make the already picturesque landscape even more mystifying with a unique brand of country life deep in the highlands of Kochi. Taking a photo with a bovine friend against a backdrop of long winding roads that seem to scrape the skyline is an odd, yet worth-while experience that few who travel there will want to miss. However, creating unique, social media worthy posts is only part of what these mountaintop cows have to offer.
Conveniently located on a hilltop near the western side of the Karst, Hotel Mezuru-sou is stocked with fresh dairy goods like ice cream, milk, and more, to let anyone get a taste of this surprisingly delicious natural park. Specialty foods, snacks, and souvenirs from all over Kochi line the walls of the quaint establishment and add a farm-style touch that make spending the entire day or the night hard to resist. Not only that, but the nearby Mezurudaira Camping Ground is filled with local favorites like Karst Coffee with its wide range of drinks to make the unobstructed view of the starry night sky even sweeter. It’s the perfect spot to watch the sunset/sunrise transform the surrounding region into a stunning parade of golden lights while enjoying some of the freshest flavors this rocky region has to offer. One thing to consider is the two-hour drive from Kochi City and limited public transit options which might make it difficult to visit for some. But for those who are willing to take on this journey, this quaint country road’s incomparable mountaintop views are a significant payoff.
However, far from being the only stop on an adventure into the Kochi countryside, the Karst is matched in pure spectacle by another lesser-known natural wonder called the Nakatsu Gorge. Known for its crystal clear “Niyodo blue” water, this geological feature cuts right into the heart of the mountain creating a snake-like trail that only gets better the deeper it goes. Filled with branching paths that have been beautifully crafted into the gorge, the trail leads visitors across time-worn bridges, over raging waterfalls, and even through short caverns. It’s an adventure in every sense of the word as the terrain becomes steadily wilder against the sounds of water rushing past the sharp volcanic rock walls.
Along the roughly 45-minute trek are statues of the Seven Gods of Fortune, which act as guides and amplify a sense of sacredness. It’s almost as if they’re pointing to some ancient treasure, the likes of which Indiana Jones would lose his famous fedora to find. However, in this gorge, the treasure at the end of the road isn’t a golden statue precariously set on a pedestal, but the breathtaking Uryu Falls (雨竜の滝). Translated as “rain dragon”, these falls roar with the booming sound of water crashing on the rocks below, spraying a strong mist onto anyone who comes near. This aptly named waterfall is the perfect climax to a hike down this seemingly untamed part of Kochi.
The Nakatsukeikoku Yunomori hotel offers cozy accommodation, a restaurant, and an onsen for those looking to spend the night in the area. From there just up the road are local refreshments on tap in the form of the Blue Brew Taproom, providing a variety of alcoholic and non-alcoholic options with a riverside view. What’s more, its roughly 1hr 30-minute drive from both Toon city and Saijo city make it a very tempting day trip.
Beautiful, bountiful, and brimming with their own brand of quaint countryside life, both the Karst and Nakatsu Gorge are must-visit locations for anyone lucky enough to explore the mountains of Kochi Prefecture. Whether it’s vast hillside views, or an adventure into the very heart of the mountains, this region does not disappoint. However, that’s only the beginning of a country road that spans the island. From Cape Ashizuri to Muroto and everywhere in between, there are enough hidden gem locations to inspire albums-worth of platinum-selling country music. While it may not be West Virginia, with such diverse and unexpectedly charming places to discover, it’s safe to say the likes of John Denver would feel right at home.
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