Justin Dobbs
2024-2025 MIKAN BLOG WRITER
Justin is a second year JET based on the edge of Ehime in Shikokuchuo. Coming from a writing/communications background in suburban Georgia, he is excited to write about the JET experience in a place with such amazing natural beauty. “It hasn’t been very long since coming here, but the kindness of the people and seemingly endless places to discover in Shikoku make it the perfect canvas for storytelling.” Justin enjoys hiking, cycling, coffee, and getting lost exploring the island.
What is a national treasure? Is it a lost hoard of gold, an artistic masterpiece, or perhaps a document of cultural significance? For anyone who grew up in the 2000s that title more likely brings to mind the cheesy but much beloved adventures of Nicolas Cage trying to steal the Declaration of Independence or uncovering a lost city of gold behind Mt. Rushmore. However, for Japan, it’s quite different. Here, national treasures come in the form of a very unique set castles scattered across the country. While there are over 300 castle sites for visitors to enjoy such as the famous Osaka Castle or the dark “crow” Okayama Castle, it might be surprising to know that only twelve of them are original – the rest being merely reconstructions.
By original, it means their main keeps or “tenshu” have remained since at least the Edo period. This, along with woodwork and other surviving elements put them in a class of their own as genuine examples of Japan’s rich history. Having survived wars, fires, and demolition edicts by the government, it’s a miracle that even twelve remain. Given the legendary reputation of these twelve castles, one might assume they lie in the most remote and inaccessible regions of the country – places only the likes of Nicolas Cage or Indiana Jones could uncover. Except, that’s not true in the slightest. While some are harder to reach, many are surprisingly accessible, with four of them being right here in Shikoku.
Every Ehime JET reading this will likely be able to cross this off the list (if not already)－it’s an easy first stop. Built in 1603 and completed in 1627, Matsuyama Castle stands as one of the most beautiful and precious original castles in Japan. Its sheer size and grandeur are evident in every corridor. With numerous rooms, levels, and interactive exhibits, the castle is packed with history. Wandering through its lengthy passageways is like navigating an ornate labyrinth – only with more samurai swords instead of dead ends. The top is a treasure in itself. With panoramic views of Shikoku’s biggest city and a pleasant sea breeze in the summer, it’s easily one of the best views on the island.
The spectacle doesn’t stop with just the castle. The grounds themselves offer plenty of amenities like a gift shop/restaurant, signature mikan ice cream, and more postcard-worthy views. In fact, the castle park is listed as one of Japan’s top 100 cherry blossom viewing spots. Featured in numerous advertisements, photos, and videos, these grounds are like the face of the prefecture (aside from Mikyan of course). Unsurprisingly, Matsuyama’s grandeur and history make it a must-visit destination. And what’s more, it’s not the only legendary castle that calls Ehime home.
Located about an hour and a half south of Matsuyama and tucked away in the picturesque city of Uwajima lies Uwajima Castle. While not as well-known as Matsuyama’s giant, it (like many of the 12) holds a certain local charm where the pomp and circumstance are left behind in favor of a more intimate atmosphere. Just look at the approach. In place of an on-site museum or a relaxing chairlift, there are uneven stone stairs leading up to imposing castle walls. For about 15 – 20 minutes the path takes visitors along a pleasant nature walk where the architecture and plant life blend to create an all-around rustic, yet beautiful experience. Reaching the top reveals the castle itself – a smaller but no less hearty three-story structure watching over the seaside city.
Set on a hill in the middle of Uwajima, this stronghold was once home to the Date Clan and has managed to survive earthquakes, invasions, and even piracy since 1601. It was historically famous for using seawater to create natural motes in a pentagonal style making it extremely difficult for any would-be attackers to approach. However, as the land has slowly been reclaimed over the centuries it now lies much more inland. Despite its turbulent history, today the castle stands as a beautiful and culturally significant landmark that acts as the heart of Uwajima.
Speaking of hearts, Marugame City in Kagawa Prefecture actually has two. First is the internationally famous Marugame Udon. Known for their signature noodles made from high-quality wheat, you can find locations serving up warm bowls of udon goodness across the globe. In fact, the brand has become so well recognized that many people travel to the udon prefecture (Kagawa) just to get an authentic taste for themselves. After their bellies are full, though, what’s there to do? That’s where Marugame Castle comes in – the original heart of the city.
Like Uwajima, Marugame Castle is set high up on a hill with commanding views of the surrounding seaside city below. Though its tenshu is small, the Edo-era architecture creates a beautiful, yet striking contrast to the modern skyline. The only problem is getting there. Unlike the pleasant nature trail that leads to Uwajima’s original, the grounds here take a different approach. In fact, they are downright dangerous. While that may be a slight overstatement, steep slopes replace conventional stairs, offering a challenging climb. So much so that local student athletes have been known to use them for training due to their unforgiving angles. That said, the meticulously cared for greenery and genuinely impressive stonework more than make it worth the effort. Just make sure to bring a good pair of walking shoes before visiting.
Each of Shikoku’s original castles has its own personality, and Kochi Castle is no different. Just a short walk from Kochi Station, past palm-lined streets and bustling yatai stalls (Japanese food vendors), it greets visitors with pristine stonework, ornate lattices, and even more amazing gardens to get lost in. More impressively, it retains both its original keep and castle tower, making it a rarity even amongst the 12. Ever since its construction in 1611 and subsequent reconstruction 1753 after a fire, it has stood as the crown jewel of Kochi City. However, that’s not the only reason it’s so special. What really sets this castle apart is its ever-present role in the community.
Every Sunday around 300 stalls line a 1.3km stretch of road selling everything from fresh fish and vegetables to hand crafts and custom knives. It’s known as Japan’s best open-air market where 300 years of history and local cuisine guide visitors through the heart of the city. It is an amazing experience where anyone can come and enjoy the fruits of this lesser-known metropolis. The thing is, all the fresh sights and smells do lead somewhere. This parade of goods ends at the very base of Kochi Castle, making it the cherry on top of a rich weekly experience. Combined with the nationally famous Yosakoi festival and smaller yearly events which also center around the castle, it’s constantly surrounded by the best gatherings the prefecture has to offer. All this makes Kochi Castle more of an example rather than just a building. It shows just how much of a communal hotspot castles like this are by encouraging people to get together year-round.
Considering just how rare original castles are in Japan it’s amazing that Shikoku is home to a third of them. Each in their own ways offers a different experience and a chance to enjoy both the structures themselves and the beautiful cities they watch over. From Matsuyama castle with its bold personality and even larger city to match, to the more compact Marugame castle with its serene view over an udon stronghold, visiting any one is a worthwhile endeavor. In that sense, living on this island is a castle-lover’s dream. But as with all dreams, they are never quite complete.
Having all these beautiful pieces of Japanese history relatively close to each other is great. But, for the truly determined they are only the beginning of a longer, more compelling journey. Scattered across Japan the remaining eight castles stand as equally impressive symbols of their prefecture’s pasts. Beyond Shikoku, the closest is Bitchu Matuyama Castle in Okayama, followed by Himeji in Hyogo and Matsue in Shimane. From there, the list stretches farther: Hikone in Shiga, Inuyama in Aichi, Maruoka in Fukui, Matsumoto in Nagano, and finally, Hirosaki all the way in Aomori.
Admittedly, that is a lot for one person to visit. The good news is, going to even one of the Shikoku castles is enough to see why they are some of Japan’s most precious national treasures. They aren’t simply dusty old buildings from bygone eras, they are active parts of this country’s present. Having survived centuries of disasters and unrest they are just as important today as they were back in the Edo-era. Although it’s unfortunate that only 12 originals remain in the entire country, as long as people continue to visit and appreciate them, they are sure to keep on standing well into the future.
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